JOURNAL SENTINEL
December 17, 2009
The best new restaurants of 2009
Even in hard times, Milwaukee sees good new restaurants - but casual is the watchword
By Carol Deptolla
Are restaurateurs the most optimistic people on Earth?
In a daunting economic climate, new restaurants continued to give diners more choices in 2009. It was the rare place that was high-end, though. Most seemed intent on offering more affordable meals - often small plates, home-style comfort food, ethnic dishes, burgers and sandwiches.
And many did it in style. They offered surroundings, either cozy or stimulating, that would encourage customers to put their cares aside for a while and enjoy an evening out.
A number had staff members who made me truly feel like a welcomed guest for the evening and conveyed excitement about the dishes they were serving.
Service and atmosphere were considered for this list, but food was foremost. It's always the food.
New restaurants that were the subject of starred reviews this year were eligible, even though some opened in 2008. Note that my favorite dishes might no longer be available at some restaurants, either because they were seasonal or because the menu has undergone a revamping.
Here are the new restaurants that I considered notable for their contributions to the area's dining scene, in alphabetical order.
Charro Tacos & Tequila
* * *
729 N. Milwaukee St.
(a second Charro opened in September at 17800 W. Blue Mound Road, Brookfield)
Downtown, (414) 431-5557;
Brookfield, (262) 782-7253
charrorestaurante.com
What it does: Riffs on pan-Latin, Tex-Mex and Mexican-influenced fare, with a contemporary edge.
Why it's on the list: Charro offers a complete experience, with sleek, dramatic surroundings and polished service to complement delicious food. It offers the gamut - from nachos, hot wings and burritos to elegant entrées, fresh ceviches and tasty desserts.
Favorite dishes: Empanadas; ceviches; butternut squash soup with Caribbean spices; chimichanga with pork and eggs; warm rice pudding.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/41456947.html
CHARRO
729 N. Milwaukee St.
(414) 431-5557
charrorestaurante.com
*** overall (very good)
Food: ***
Service: *** 1/2
Ambience: *** 1/2
Fare: Mexican, Tex-Mex, and other Latin influences
Atmosphere: Energetic, stylish restaurante
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday, 5-11 p.m. Thursday-Saturday
Prices: Entrées, $11-$21
Wheelchair access: Yes
Smoking policy: No smoking
Reservations: Accepted Sunday-Thursday; for parties of six or more with a credit card Friday-Saturday Noise level: Moderate to loud at peak times
Carol Deptolla is the Journal Sentinel's dining critic. E-mail her at cdeptolla@journalsentinel.com, or phone (414) 224-2841.
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